Monday, July 28, 2008

South Dakota - The Badlands (Day 21)

Months ago, when this trip was still in the planning stages, this day was intended to simply be a travel day, a means to get a little closer to my next sightseeing stop. However, that changed when I met that wonderful gentleman at the South Dakota welcome center. He pointed out (on one of the many maps with which he provided me) where to leave the interstate to take Route 241, "The Badlands Loop", which would only add about an hour to my journey and would be well worth while. He was right, and I'm so glad that I listened to him.

I'll be honest, I had no idea what badlands were. My only connection with the term comes from one of my favorite Bruce songs. So in case you're interested, here's just a little information about the area, stolen from the National Park literature given to me at the entrance to the loop. Badlands is a term given to the area by the Native Americans, and coincidentally later the Spanish and the French, due to its harsh terrain, unpredictable and often violent weather, and the therefore extraordinary difficulty of crossing the area. Although precipitation is infrequent in the badlands, when it does rain or snow it does so heavily and violently. Temperatures in the area can range from -40 up to 120, and the weather changes drastically and without notice. The drastic weather makes the terrain ideal for erosion, revealing layer upon layer of earth and along with it fossils and apparently a wealth of information about evolution. In addition, the badlands are just simply extraordinary to look at.

I entered the loop behind a large group of bikers; not an uncommon sight for the last few days due to something called the Sturgis Rally in the Black Hills which starts next week (apparently, its a big deal, though frankly I don't know much about the whole biking subculture.) Shortly after passing the main gate, I saw the bikers pull off onto a side road, so I followed them, wanting to see what these badlands were really all about. The first views I was treated with were simply stunning. Unbelievable. Kind of like the grand canyon turned upside down. Seriously, incredible. So I walked a bit through some tall grass to the edge of a cliff to take the picture above and some others - I saw a few deer walking on the ledges, but unfortunately those pics didn't come out. Anyway, I then got back into my car and continued along.

At the next view point, I got out of the car and saw the sign to the left; thus terminating any additional forays through the tall grass to get better pictures. I did get a lot of great shots though, although (and I know, I sound like a broken record), the pictures simply do not come close to depicting what it was like being there. It was extraordinarly hot and dry outside the car, though it's difficult for me to guess what the actual temperature was. The roads themselves drive through the terrain, not around it; so for the entire 40 miles or so you are surrounded on either side by steep ridges, or you drive up and down high hills with cliffs on either side. At certain points, you can really see the different colors of the layers of the earth, reds and pinks contrasted with the green of the grass, the grey and beige rock, the blue sky; frankly, the Painted Desert has nothing on the badlands.

I wish I could have spent all day enjoying the scenery, and maybe taking advantage of one of the hiking trails to get a closer look, maybe see a fossil or two. Sadly, though, I had many more hundreds of miles to cover before I could rest. I wish I could go back and hug that man who convinced me to take this drive. If you ever get a chance to see the badlands in South Dakota, take it. Literally, literally it will take your breath away.

Before leaving, I stopped quickly to grab another magnet at the gift shop, and then headed back onto the road. When I returned to the interstate, I was a little sad to have left the badlands behind. Not completely though; the Springsteen song was still playing in my head - and continued to for the rest of the 300 mile or so drive to Sioux Falls.

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